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Classified Glossary
27. 1Weave with supplementary wefts
To create gradation effect of colours in silk tapestry, different hatch method (yunke) is used: 1. round hatched (raoke or jiyun) with wefts outlining the pattern shape, which was adopted from wool tapestry; 2. parallel hatched (pingke or pingyun) with parallel wefts which was popular in the Ming and Qing dynasties.
28.
1Brocade
With a set of warps and wefts used as a foundation weave, an extra set of supplementary wefts is introduced during the weaving for patterning. The foundation weave could be tabby with supplementary weft (huajuan), twill with supplementary weft (hualing), satin with supplementary weft (huaduan), damask with supplementary weft (hualing or huaduan), gauze with supplementary weft (huasha or hualuo), etc.

29.
1Double-faced weave
Discontinuous supplementary weft yarns of different colours are woven into the foundation weave in specific areas required by the pattern. Categorized according to the foundation weave, brocade (zhuanghua) are described as: brocaded tabby (zhuanghuajuan), brocaded twill (zhuanghualing), brocaded satin (zhuanghuaduan), brocaded damask (zhuanghua'anhuaduan), brocaded velvet (zhuanghuarong), and brocaded double weave (zhuanghuagaiji). The so-called cloud brocade (yunjin) made in Nanjing is usually brocaded satin or damask.

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