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Classified Glossary
1.warp-faced compound weave (jingchongzuzhi), is the classic polychrome, patterned silk structure used in Chinese textiles. The term jin-silk suggests this type and could be divided into:
a. warp-faced compound tabby (pingwenjingchong), first appeared in the Western Zhou, popular during the Warring States and Qin, Han period;
b. looped warp-faced compound tabby (rongquanjingchong), first appeared around the time of the Western Han period;
c. warp-faced compound twill (xiewenjingchong) became the most popular weave structure during the Sui and Tang dynasties, replacing the warp-faced compound tabby.
2. weft-faced compound weave (weichongzuzhi), is a product influenced by weaving techniques which was introduced from the West during the period between the Northern dynasty to Tang dynasty, may be further divided into:
a. weft-faced compound tabby (pingwenweijin), also called taquete, originated in western or central Asia and came to China in the 3rd-5th century;
b. weft-faced compound twill (xiewenweijin), also called samite, originated in western or central Asia and appeared in China during the Tang dynasty;
c. compound twill weft-faced on both sides (banmingxingxiewenweijin) appeared in the late Tang, popular during Liao, could be called Liao samite (liaoshiweijin);
d. compound satin weft-faced on both sides (banmingxing duanwenweijin), appeared in the Liao dynasty, could also be called satin samite (duanwenweijin).
e. brocaded compound twill/ satin (zhuanghuaweijin) from the Liao dynasty.
f. compound satin with floats (fuwenweijin), from the Liao dynasty.

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